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14/20Critics' Pick

The Raw

Tuna with fermented fennel.
1 / 10Tuna with fermented fennel.Supplied
Calamari with mushroom XO, among other dishes.
2 / 10Calamari with mushroom XO, among other dishes.Supplied
Inside the venue.
3 / 10Inside the venue.Supplied
Nashi collins with Japanese nashi liqueur, Geelong dry gin and elderflower iced tea.
4 / 10Nashi collins with Japanese nashi liqueur, Geelong dry gin and elderflower iced tea. Supplied
Portarlington mussels with chawanmushi.
5 / 10Portarlington mussels with chawanmushi.Supplied
Oysters.
6 / 10Oysters.Supplied
Focaccia with nori butter.
7 / 10Focaccia with nori butter.Supplied
John Dory with fennel salad, capers, chives, dill and beurre noisette.
8 / 10John Dory with fennel salad, capers, chives, dill and beurre noisette.Supplied
Spanner crab croquette.
9 / 10Spanner crab croquette.Supplied
Strawberry and cream dessert.
10 / 10Strawberry and cream dessert.Supplied
14/20Critics' Pick

The Raw

Seafood$$

Proving fresh ideas and top produce can beat sea views.

It may not be on the waterfront, but this alleyway restaurant has been delivering a tide of innovative seafood dishes since opening in early 2025. Slippery ribbons of calamari – smoke-kissed by the hibachi grill – are served over textural shiitake XO and eat like noodles.

Mussels from nearby Portarlington swim in a rich mushroom broth that conceals the true treasure: a chawanmushi custard with delightful wobble. The hibachi also sears John dory, its crisp skin offset by tangy caper-chive salsa, while toasty beurre noisette pools beneath.

Lean into the food’s east Asian skew with sake and Japanese craft beer. It’s a big side-step for the team behind local toastie hot spot Brown Deli. But with chef Jack Lee (ex-Hentley Farm, South Australia) at the pass, it’s easy to see where The Raw’s polish comes from.

Must-order: Mussels with mushroom broth and chawanmushi. It’s a dish you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in town.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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