Upstairs within the sleek Japanese hospitality temple Prefecture 48, chef Akira Horikawa showcases the best from Australian and Japanese waters at his eight-seat omakase experience.

A cup of sake kickstarts the 21-course meal before the steamed chawanmushi custard accentuates delicate freshwater eel and pops of sansho pepper, yuzu and wasabi. Diners are shown a live eastern rock lobster later served sashimi-style with Victorian sea urchin, Tasmanian salmon roe and caviar as luxurious companions.

Visiting during bluefin tuna season in winter yields sensationally fatty chutoro and otoro from the prized fish belly, shaped perfectly into nigiri sushi. Other notable sushi bites include a buttery, torched imperador and sweet Western Australian scampi.

Horikawa casts a watchful eye over the counter as the front of house excel in hospitality from start to finish, keeping diners satiated with a neat list of cocktails, wine and, of course sake.

Good to know: Prefecture 48’s cocktail bar, Whisky Thief, is the right idea for a nightcap.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.