From the creators of what could be Melbourne’s most defining restaurant – Tipo 00 – comes this lo-fi luxe creature beneath a 35-storey office tower. Chef James Kelly (ex-Embla, Lyle’s in London) presents polished food that’s Euro-ish but decidedly not faithful to one region.

Poached pink rainbow trout in a delicate sorrel sauce is a harmonious entree. The dense meatiness of pig’s head terrine is given contrast by witlof leaves and quince puree. Gnocchi rests in an emerald emulsion of kale. Lamb sweetbreads change often – perhaps they’re tumbled through brown butter, caper and lemon – but their creamy yet crisp texture does not.

Sommelier Justin Howe can pull from one of the better collections of burgundy in town, but he doesn’t try to upsell you. Harriot may not fit into the neat categories of wine bar or fine dining, but perhaps that doesn’t matter.

Must-order: Lamb sweetbreads.

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