If you’re the kind of diner who knows the best month for southern bluefin tuna and Tasmanian sea urchin, you may be familiar with chef Raita Noda’s eight-seat Surry Hills “Chef’s Kitchen” which opened in 2014. Now he’s at Redfern’s slick new Wunderlich Lane precinct, joined by his son, Momotaro, and providing one of the most embellished omakase experiences in town.

The best courses are the most simple: an invigorating kombu and bonito dashi brightened with yuzu and boasting lotus root and a fillet of bass grouper; the nigiri procession of raw fish on deftly vinegared rice.

Other courses can be a little over-garnished, but Team Noda certainly knows how to coax and balance flavour. John Dory tartare is elevated by fennel and sansho pepper cream, served on a crisp made from rice porridge and finished with calamansi juice, samphire and phlox flowers; the “Stairway to Heaven” is a tiered glass curve with five different sashimi bites including swordfish belly with finger lime, a slip of sea urchin and cuttlefish ravioli, and, finally, otoro (the prized extra fatty tuna cut) licked with a blowtorch to release its rich oils.

A warning to the noise-averse: you can have a conversation, no problem, but the house-music volume is far from “background”. This is not your traditional hushed temple of sushi.

Good to know: Yes, they are replica Star Wars lightsabers on display above the impressive knife collection. Momotaro will let you hold one of the laserswords if you ask nicely.

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