You’re being silver-served scallop and truffle fried rice by a senior gentleman in a waistcoat. Mud crabs, parrotfish and abalone hit tables left and right as the live tanks begin to thin out. Big families rotate the Susan until everyone’s had some roast duck. You’re at one of Melbourne’s Southern Chinese institutions, but it’s not Flower Drum.

The tables are packed tight here on Whitehorse Road, fragrant with exemplary Cantonese cooking and drenched in blinding light. Deep-fried king prawns with imperial kung-po sauce are everywhere you look, the crack of their thick, sweet ‘n’ sour batter creating a lasting sensory memory.

Claypots contain all manner of umami: clam meat, minced pork and fried tofu plumbing savoury depths. The XO sauce, a yardstick for southern excellence, is chewy, rich and complex – skip dessert and summon another ramekin. Fast, fun and family-friendly.

Good to know: The wine list is not Melbourne’s strongest; BYO for best results.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.