Refreshingly old-school and unaffected, Bistro Molines presents more like a lived-in Provençal mas than a classic Hunter-style Big Winery Restaurant, with cloths on the tables, plates and breadboards on the walls, and dainty ceramics and sweets covering the antique table.

The food is farmhouse fare, too. Hew to the sunny hand-illustrated carte for the day’s specials; scan the handwritten one-pager for cocktails and wines by the glass. On the menu proper it’s a two- or three-course affair, perhaps smoked quail with the ribs removed, served on a mini cassoulet softened with choucroute, then hefty crumbed cutlets, cooked medium and garnished with olive-flecked zucchini.

Food comes out hot, and salad wears its dressing as lightly as career waiters wear their easy charm, while the elevated position gives views of autumnal leaves and – sure – rolling vineyards. Timeless elegance, with just enough invention.

Good to know: The attached Little Orchard Cottage offers charming accommodation for up to four guests, with breakfast supplies included.

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