Both cluey locals and ambling tourists are greeted with warmth akin to a homecoming at this enduring seaside taverna. Lorne’s relaxed pace is captured in the room’s contented hum and the menu’s soulful dishes. The cooking is top notch. Meaty, chargrilled king prawns bathe in a Greek spin on XO featuring salted cod, fennel seeds and dill.

Generous quantities of salsa verde and pickled green peppers crown glistening octopus caught from the ocean in front. Unsolicited – though eagerly accepted – olive bread is a welcome vehicle for the last flecks of herby oil. Pan-fried spatchcock arrives golden, resting among roasted grapes, fennel and tarragon dressing.

Waiters diligently recommend wine pairings from a list that causes eyes to narrow so as to absorb its sheer breadth. A single scoop of mandarin sorbet beneath a crisp, cardamom-spiced biscuit is a smart finish to a generous Greek feast.

Good to know: Ipsos closes over winter so be sure to check ahead before you book.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.