The premier plant-based destination of our city has gone through many eras. Right now, the warm spices of Spain, North Africa and the Middle East dominate, and the welcome into the soft glow of the Collingwood warehouse restaurant is just as sunny.

A catchy selection of share-friendly plates is broad enough to please many eaters. Rich mushroom pâté bolstered by truffle is piped generously onto toast. Skewers of oyster mushroom sport scorched edges and harissa’s fiery kick. The open kitchen’s fire adds smoke and depth to plenty more, including satisfying kofta that will make you sit up and marvel at the culinary sleight of hand.

Orange blossom-scented custard wrapped in filo pastry – a spin on baklava – is more proof of the kitchen’s never-say-never attitude. House kombucha and classic-with-a-twist cocktails keep the good times going for drinkers and abstainers alike.

Must-order: Pasta alla Norma. “Fish sauce” and fried capers bring salty funk to the sweetness of eggplant and tomato.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.