It’s impossible to be in a bad mood when there’s a puffed round of pizza fritta in front of you, piled with porcini cream and whorls of fat-rippled wagyu bresaola. Glance around this low-lit diner on Hunter Street, and it’s all smiles among locals, visitors or anyone who appreciates a bang-up bowl of pasta.

Speaking of, go for the pumpkin agnolotti and, while paired classically with brown butter, it’s enhanced by chef and co-owner Michael Portley with a dash of pumpkin stock, given savoury depth with white miso and kombu. Rigatoni also gets a revamp: cacao powder worked into the dough lends an earthy, almost mushroomy note that holds its own alongside rich short-rib and brisket ragu.

Meanwhile, co-owner Steph Wells keeps the room humming, guiding guests through a wine list that champions small, family-run producers. Bah, humbug? Not a chance.

Good to know: Humbug also offers a full vegan menu, available with prior notice.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.