Though this concrete-lined room might seem dim when you first bed down at one of its 12 counter seats, flashes of tempura batter bubbling in specially blended sesame oil quickly light the place up.

Slices of Tasmanian abalone wear a crisp shell, awaiting their dive into a candle-warmed pot of king-crab miso; tempura zucchini flower stuffed with mozzarella and blue-swimmer crab in a bowl of prosciutto broth lined with squid ink is technical cooking with a capital T.

But as impressive as the fried parts are, seafood is the real strength of chef Kensuke Yada’s omakase, ranging from sashimi to charcoal-grilled to, yes, tempura king prawn with matcha salt or John Dory with curry salt, fried just long enough to allow the freshness of the key ingredient to shine.

Ramen to finish is jolt, but it’s pure comfort, while the sake selection is perhaps the city’s finest outside of Ante.

Good to know: Friday and Saturday lunches are more casual, with three tempura sets available for under $60, served piece by piece in addition to rice, sashimi, soup and pickles.

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