Seasonal big guns – Hokkaido sea urchin, Yamagata wagyu, abalone – show up during weekends, but it’s the quiet weekday sushi that speaks loudest here. Each grain of rice holds firm under a slice of jewel-cut tuna loin from Queensland. Kyoto-style pressed mackerel sushi with sharp vinegar nods to both Edo history and chef Hajime Horiguchi’s hometown.

The counter’s slab of amber onyx is more imposing than photos suggest, but the menu is humble in its restraint. Flounder fin is finely scored and simply torched. Firefly squid is dressed in white miso and vinegar. Mushizushi – a steamed parcel of rice, gourd strips, saltwater eel and spanner crab – shows total respect for ingredients.

High ceilings and well-spaced seats mean there’s no need to whisper, and staff stay within eye-contact, ready to organise fruity Junmai Daiginjo sake or white wine from Koshu.

Best for: A quiet and comfortable splurge in the CBD.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.