High society and its demi-monde of influencers are both commonly spied species at this paean to indulgence. Four years into its tenure, the darkly opulent dining room continues to fulfill its fantasy brief, but even puffer-wearers will fly first class on plush banquettes wrapping rockstar-worthy circular tables.

Seafood on ice – carried to every second table by smartly liveried waiters – reflects the menu’s luxurious skew. Impeccable imperador tartare with smoked roe and lime gussies up the ubiquitous raw fish course, and cacio e pepe risotto ennobled with swatches of abalone is a trend-mixing triumph.

Even roasted chicken can be ordered without a blush thanks to impeccable handling that extends to a soulful sauce of wine and mushrooms. Expert sommelier guidance will help you navigate the nuances of an extravagant 10,000 bottle wine list or dive with you to the depths of Burgundy and Bordeaux.

Best for: Arranging a marriage proposal in a sorbet.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.