Maybe it’s the sparkling sake. Maybe it’s the sax-only soundtrack or the blond timber finishings. Maybe it’s giddiness induced by tuna belly and all things shelly – but you may feel like you’re in love with Shusai Mijo’s chawanmushi. Silken egg custard. Gentlest dashi. Eel, prawn, and monkfish liver for good measure. At last, the good fish have found their way to Fitzroy, and they’re cut like jewels at this omakase par excellence.

It’s $180 to play, but that buys you a 10-stanza sushi extravaganza bookended by crystal sashimi and matcha ice-cream sandwiches. Deal? Cue the fish. Paradise prawns that pop under dental duress. Torched scallops topped with mullet roe and cultured butter. Otoro tuna plump with winter marbling and proud with caviar

Drinks, from two dozen sakes to the odd Japanese-grown white, traverse the country. And, you’re done in under two hours – one diner’s rush, another’s delight.

Must-order: The set menu is a literal must-order.

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