If Pipi’s were any closer to the sea you might actually need a wetsuit. Drag your gaze, if you can, from the white sand and steely grey waves metres away and soak up these pastel surrounds, where the late arvo sun hits just right and Blondie bops on the stereo.

There’s warm, seaweed-flecked sourdough to drag through your subtly citrussy snapper crudo and a cold, crisp chardy to gently start the party. Chef Jordan Clay’s menu is compact, deceptively simple and steeped in technique. A single plump octopus tendril, lightly charred and swirled with smoky romesco and tangy ajo blanco, is a warm, fleshy flavour bomb.

Confit duck leg, caramelised and satisfyingly savoury atop saucy root vegetable cassoulet shows it’s not always about the seafood. It’s rich, sure, but that’s what leisurely post-meal jetty walks are for.

Good to know: Pipis also has a sandy feet-friendly fish and chip shop kiosk for those who want a more casual beach-side meal.

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