The young professionals sitting at Kisume’s ground-floor sushi counter were barely out of school when the three-level restaurant opened in 2017. Back then, Chris Lucas’s homage to modern Japanese cuisine was known as much for its funky flavour combinations and theatrics as it was for introducing many Australians to the luxury of omakase dining.

Kisume has since matured into a confident, accomplished restaurant for discerning grown-ups. Among the hits are a cube of crunchy potato rosti topped with butter-soft unagi; immaculate nigiri of Ora King salmon; a tempura calamari riff on fish fingers; and, of course, wagyu, just-seared and wrapped around a very fine maki roll.

Well-mannered and attentive waitstaff can steer you towards the oscietra caviar upgrade or the big-ticket beef with foie gras and, later, the restaurant’s Chablis bar. Cue applause – and a bow to your sushi masters as you leave.

Good to know: For the full omakase experience, book into the Chef’s Table upstairs.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.