When it opened in 2018, Ishizuka introduced kaiseki to many Melbourne diners. Today, more restaurants offer this formal progression of seasonal dishes but Ishizuka easily holds its own. The stone-lined basement is epic and timeless, with all 16 diners ringing a monumental kitchen counter.

Chef Katsuji Yoshino oversees the food offering with exactitude and a sprightly humour; manager Yuki Nakamura eases diners into the ceremonial rhythm of service. You’ll start with zensai, a multi-dish expression of the seasons, nestled in tiered crockery: raw ocean trout paired with fresh soybeans, an oyster lolls in onion broth.

There’ll be pristine sashimi and shimmery soup, improbably crisp tempura and DIY shabu-shabu. If there’s duck, it will be presented whole then carved with respect. The sake matches are exquisite. Harmonious, humbling and hidden away, Ishizuka is always striving to be even more special.

Best for: Solos or duos, as all diners sit at the counter.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.