The Chinatown institution which romanced Sydneysiders for three decades with XO pipis, roast pigeon, claypot beef and live seafood lives again. Four years after calling time on Sussex Street, Golden Century owners Eric and Linda Wong, with son Billy, are now serving Cantonese at Crown and it’s a very different vibe to the original.

A sparkling, plush fitout? Floor-to-ceiling windows? New tanks? If little of the original Golden Century remains, is it still Golden Century? Well, yes. The menu still offers all those primo fish, fat crabs and pipis cooked with top-level technique, and the yum cha is among the best in the city.

Dig into kerchiefs of glutinous rice noodles coated in a thin layer of that signature XO, football-sized scallop and prawn siu mai, or golden-fried toast covered in swathes of prawn mousse. All the better if you want to dig into the impressive wine list – or just neck a Tsingtao – while doing so.

Must order: Splashing out on things from the tanks is not a condition of entry, but few places steam seafood better.

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