At a time when some restaurant menus can blur into one, Doju’s stands apart by deftly twisting new Korean flavours with native Australian ingredients. In a split-level space off a city food court, you’ll find hero dishes such as yukhoe made with raw beef from retired dairy cows and a hit of desert lime.

Wagyu intercostal grilled galbi-style carries the nutty funk of macadamia ssamjang, and a stack of wafer-thin potato slices soaks up decadent black garlic butter. A bright claw of Manjimup marron is paired with stinging nettle noodles in a thrilling upgrade of crayfish pasta.

Clever non-alcs and minimal intervention wines impress on the thoughtful drinks list, and dessert – especially dark chocolate mousse with squares of hangwa, the sticky Korean rice cake, under a snappy hazelnut tuile – is a fun finish. A compelling player in Melbourne’s new K-wave.

Good to know: The venue is open Monday to Friday only.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.