In a stark concrete gallery, suave waiters carry martinis on silver trays to top-end-of-town types who like their stuzzichini with a side of video art. At the long marble bar, a celebrated designer watches a camo-painted vintage Rolls-Royce do doughnuts on an outback plain.

A politician dines at a double-clothed table beneath a mesmeric projection of turbulent seas; his security detail sits nearby. It can feel like you’ve stumbled onto a surrealist filmset, but a single, salty bite of sage-wrapped anchovy is a delicious reality check. A tangle of whisper-crisp fried seafood and zucchini might follow, or ricotta-spinach gnudi, gnocchi’s lighter Tuscan cousin.

The kitchen’s Bologna-inspired riposte to the pub parma sees crumbed pork cutlet lavished with prosciutto, parmigiano and intense veal jus. Let the credits roll with warm soldiers of toasted brioche for dipping in marsala-rich zabaglione.

Good to know: Admission is via a discreetly placed button beside the glass door.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.