Nine shared dishes for $85 a head is a bargain these days, but especially when they’re as fresh, inventive and sustainably-minded as these. Three courses feature three plates each, starting with sourdough baked that morning served with oil infused using waste scraps from the kitchen. The bread also appears in crisp tartlets filled with earthy maitake mushrooms and a custard of aged house-made cheddar.

Bigeye tuna pops up in a tartare atop crisp fried potato, then later as dice over mildly tangy curd with pickled caperberries. The vision continues with smoky Beechworth venison dressed with macadamia cream, and pristine Milawa chicken breast in charcuterie sauce made from more kitchen offcuts.

The service and old-school vineyard dining room are charmingly casual; wines are unsurprisingly elegant, with the house match offering three glasses for $30. It’s another steal in one of Victoria’s most underrated wine regions.

Good to know: No designated driver? The Lancemore Milawa offers swish rooms over the road.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.