There should be a word for the sorrow of seeing the final serving of boudin noir with fennel salad eaten by your neighbour at the bar. Alas, things move fast at this intimate bastion of bistronomy, where seasonality is not mere lip service. Find solace in the sweet meat of grilled cod wing, making its minimal-waste case with a punchy sambal.

Or duck leg with burnished skin and a drinkable sauce of apple cider vinegar and prune: equal parts electrifying and coddling. Befitting Brico’s wide-ranging, peppy wine list, the kitchen does a great line in raw and pickled dishes, too, such as fat Calabrian anchovies and their pickled twin, boquerones, in a sprightly slurry of salsa verde.

A neighbourhood charmer from a crew well-versed in offering tastes of wine while flipping records, Brico nails the good times for fun-loving grown-ups.

Must-order dish: Anchovies and boquerones.

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