Located on 405 hectares, Barragunda spans restaurant, regenerative farm and native bushland. Chef Simone Watts transforms the farm’s produce into gorgeous dishes on a bargain of a five-course tasting menu. Baby vegetables come with decadent sabayon made from leek tops.

A fantastically lacquered savoury Danish may cradle Jerusalem artichoke and onion or smoked eggplant with black garlic. Animals, too, are raised here: hogget, which is smoked for kofta, and black Angus, used for steaks, osso buco and more. The orchard dictates dessert: perhaps a stonefruit and semolina confection in summer, or mandarin with orange blossom and carrot for winter.

Several estate-grown apple varieties power an unforgettable Appletini, and staff are happy to chat about wines from small Australian producers and European cult labels as you bask in the room that overlooks a market garden.

Good to know: The restaurant operates on a profit-for-purpose model, supporting projects linked to food, farming and climate.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.