The lo-fi sibling neighbour of Old Palm Liquor is dark, loud and always up for a good time. The food offering is brief but effective with pop-up pizzaiolo Kit Iacuzi of Da Paolo now a resident behind the bar, serving puffy-based, four-slice marvels using a portable electric oven and 48-hour fermented dough.

Of the half-a-dozen vegetarian-leaning combinations, our pick is the white-based gamberi, loaded with prawns, garlic, fior di latte and punchy chilli sauce. There’s also a classic margherita, umami-rich mushroom, fiery amatriciana, plus a handful of snacks on crackers and – surprisingly – an Oscietra caviar service.

Booze is, unsurprisingly, a drawcard, whether it’s great-value options from cult producers such as Koerner and Little Reddie, or spirits, beers and skinsy wines from near and far listed across 48 pages. The very-Brunswick-East crowd often spills onto the street, like a house party you never want to leave.

Good to know: BG sells one-litre bottles of natural wine – ‘bright reds’, ‘skinzies’ and ‘rizzas’ – to take away for just $22 a piece.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.