When a kitchen is so open it’s literally part of the dining room, it needs a dream team to sell the calm. Gladly, the staff at this fine diner communicate almost telepathically. Moving in tacit harmony under a silent rangehood, they echo the serenity of Hotel Vera – restored in 2022 – while spinning Central Victorian produce into a spirited set menu.

Gougeres are heavy with hot, bitey blue cheese from Long Paddock. Western Plains pork loin poached in buttermilk is a study of the season: a handsome assembly of Brussels sprouts and pickled cabbage, finished with lardons and jus of serious depth. Mussels are flattered with delicate fennel veloute and studded with bright orange segments.

Koi play in the pond outside while you swirl a Crawford River riesling and consider the fudgy magnificence of your steamed honey pudding; as comforting as the restaurant’s wooden furnishings.

Good to know: The adjoining accommodation is rich with marble, brass and local art.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.