Fufu. It’s the premier pounded carb of West Africa, and in Ghana it’s a comforting complement to a canon of robustly spiced soups. So too at St Kilda favourite Akwaaba, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Begin with akoko nsa: chicken wings lacquered with chilli oil, balanced by mayo rich with Nigerian spice blend yaji.

Hefty jollof arancini balls are fun fusion, embellished with parmesan crisps and a bed of yaji sauce, but red red is the dish to linger on: an impossibly rich, earthy (and vegan) bean stew flattered by the crunch of fried plantains. Chicken light soup is a delicious misnomer, a glossy, savoury, tomato-based broth that your fufu has been waiting for.

Order a glass of sobolo – a tart, crimson elixir of steeped dried hibiscus and spices – and toast to the culinary riches of West Africa.

Must-order: Red red, served with a ramekin of cassava flour to adjust the texture to your liking.

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