There aren’t enough words to fully capture the creativity and spark of Josh and Julie Niland and their team. They’re grinding fish bones to make linguine, mixing martinis with sea urchin-infused gin and serving a charcuterie course nine years in the making.

And what a course: there are four tarts, including a glorious coral trout-head terrine topped with curry-and-verjuice jelly, and a seven-layer stack of house-made cured fish skewered Gilda-style, including Murray cod chorizo and tuna ’nduja stuffed into a gordal olive. Not only is it mind-blowing, it perfectly articulates Josh Niland’s belief: whatever you can do with meat, you can do with fish.

What follows is a procession of deeply delicious, considered seafood dishes, from coral trout with French curry sauce to dry-aged tuna wrapped in swordfish belly bacon. It’s enhanced by a comfortable room, an expansive drinks list and generous service that’s all-in on the vision. Astounding stuff.

Good to know: The bar has its own la carte menu, and if you stay in the hotel you get to experience the brilliant Saint Peter breakfast.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.