With a dramatic architectural presence on the foothills of Mount Canobolas, the stage is set for a meal of matching ambition. Arrive early for a glass of blanc de blanc on the terrace, before moving to the contemporary dining room lined with native wood, leather and works by local artists.

There’s a clear eye for technique and texture here. Crisp carrot cannoli with ricotta and cured duck breast leaves a memorable first impression alongside a neatly formed lamb dumpling paired with shaved dehydrated heart and vadouvan mayonnaise.

A standout dish of wattleseed-cured trout, Jerusalem artichoke and “surf-and-turf broth” reads complex on paper, but lands balanced, refined, and quietly brilliant.

To finish, a cleverly reworked tarte tatin, with hay-infused ice-cream and apple-skin caramel, brings nuance and poise. Complemented by excellent service and unmatched views, aspiration and execution meet on equal terms at one of the region’s standout tables.

Best for: Long lunching and a cellar door visit.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.