With such impeccable sightlines, it’d be easy to enjoy Oborozuki even if all it offered was snacks and sandwiches, but this ambitious fine-diner pitches itself right at the opposite end of the spectrum.

Before you arrive you’re asked to consider a $180 or $220 set menu, or the option of a $450 teppanyaki experience, including options to add caviar to any of them.

Daeun Kang’s menu brings Euro technique to Japanese bones, from toothfish enriched with uni and vermouth foam, to dry-aged duck breast artfully arranged alongside discs of black garlic hoisting up sails of fig.

A tome-like drinks menu features opportunities to try one-of-a-kind sparkling sake as well as sink thousands into Burgundy, while a fleet of smiling experts dart around answering questions, performing cocktail theatre and assuring you that yuzu mille-feuille is the right dessert choice. Spoiler alert: it is.

Best for: A luxurious blowout for a big celebration.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.