Moonlight, a fun hibachi grill and wine bar with welcoming service from a team that’s been there since day one, shines bright in a Byron Bay backstreet. Squashy banquettes and soundproofing soften the rowdy hum, while the moody black-white palette reflects both sides of the moon.

In the kitchen is Swedish chef Robbie Oijvall, who sources handmade, small-batch tamari and soy from Japan, along with sweet Hokkaido scallops, prized for their consistency and size. Served in the half-shell, these plump beauties are soused in “nippon butter”, a salty flavour bomb of rich kombu. There are two types of sashimi: vegan slow-roasted and tamari-marinated watermelon, or magnificent Western Australian kingfish with a ginger-yuzu vinaigrette and crunch from puffed rice.

The fusion continues on the excellent drinks list, with cocktail ingredients including shisho syrup, yuzu and nashi; plus a stellar selection of plum wines, sakes and Japanese whiskies.

Best for: Something a bit spesh, from a hot date to a birthday splurge.

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