It’s hard not to have fun at Ho Jiak (once you’re done queuing and land a table). Owner Junda Khoo says he wants it to remind him of his amah in Penang, and the village atmosphere is casual and warm.

The menu is huge, with all your favourites from char kwai teow to Hainanese chicken rice, and soon-to-be favourites like the char koay kak of wok-fried rice cakes in soy caramel. The kitchen works hard to deliver the true flavours of Malaysia, then takes it further, making them jump with chilli, garlic, belacan, and fermented duck eggs.

Playful dishes – har gau with chilli crab, and roti stuffed with chicken curry – are just as successful as the tried-and-true. Jumbo prawn laksa is generous, rich and creamy, with two different noodles for those paying attention. Bowlfuls of flavour, fun and family.

Must order: Slow-cooked bone-in chicken curry and rice. Classic.

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