Maybe you’re a weekly regular at Matt Moran’s flagship fine-diner, popping in for a quick lunch-time striploin and Sydney’s silkiest mashed potato, slicked with brown butter. Maybe you’re as familiar with the novel-thick wine list as you are with the harbour views. Or maybe you’ve been thinking about visiting the stalwart for the first time, or the first time in years.

Is it still one of the most logical choices for a birthday or business meeting that matters? Absolutely. Floor staff are dedicated professionals at the top of their game, produce comes from Australia’s rockstar farmers and fishers, and chef Tom Gorringe is a talent.

Few kitchens layer flavour better in a sauce, whether it’s the malt jus pooling rosy slices of David Blackmore rump cap, or a sticky reduction from duck roasted on the crown and served with a delicious farce of its liver and leg all wrapped up in onion. The gold-standard souffle is always a must, currently flavoured with passionfruit and pour-over licorice custard.

Good to know: The bar menu has relaunched with oysters, a cheeseburger and plenty of Krug.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.