Squint at this oasis inside Brighton Beach’s Novotel and it’s not too big a stretch to imagine you’ve just stepped off a plane in Santorini. It might be the resort-style terrace that catches the eye, the raw bar laden with lobsters and caviar, or more likely it’s those sweeping bay views, flooding both daylight and luxe island vibes into the expansive dining room.

Or perhaps it’s the checklist of Greek standbys being ferried out from the wood-fired kitchen, headed by veteran Peter Conistis: saganaki and spanakopita, traditional cheeses like rich, salty kalathaki limnou, taramosalata, tzatziki and charred pita.

There’s lamb four ways, including slow-roasted shoulder, but grilled cutlets could use less time on the grill. Plump scallops on the shell with a crunchy nest of seaweed kataifi are more like it, and if the loukoumades don’t hit the sweet spot, another glass of assyrtiko by the pool will do the trick.

Best for: Pretending you’re on an Aegean island holiday.

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