Fifteen courses. Classical French technique. Forward-thinking Korean cooking. Indeed, the proposition at this cushy, cloistered 12-seater is uniquely its own – and realised with often uncommon precision to boot.

Kingfish tartare puts others in the metaverse to shame, sheathed in dried-bonito mayo and ginger vinaigrette, topped with dainty dashi jelly cubes and served with crisp-fried seaweed alongside. A refined take on gukbap turns the famed ‘hangover soup’ on its head, bolstering beef-shin broth with earthy-rich pearl mushrooms and sliced shin meat.

It’s an unpredictable, idiosyncratic ride: one moment it’s a bowl of briny nabak-kimchi that resets the palate like a lightning bolt, the next it’s gently grilled Southern calamari in salsify-spiked beurre blanc.

A provocative tea pairing with a native Australian accent only adds more intrigue. Sure, the $325 per head price tag may be prohibitive, but the polish and professionalism here can’t be questioned.

Best for: A pointy-end degustation with a point of difference.

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