In late July, Hunter St. Hospitality (the group which runs Rockpool Bar & Grill) opened 24 York at a 200-seat site formerly home to a Bavarian Beerhaus. It’s a handsome space of black tiles, white bricks, whiter tablecloths and racing-green Corinthian columns.

An island bar feels engineered for eating oysters and drinking martinis except you can only do the latter. Steak frites is the only dish here, at least if you don’t count a good-enough green salad and a pretty decent New York cheesecake.

A 220-gram scotch fillet from O’Conner Beef is $48 (at the time of writing, at least) with fries and a choice of sauce, and the butter-forward taste and mouthfeel leave the vast majority of similarly priced pub steaks for dead. You can only have it grilled to medium or well done, and with such tight control over the production line, a solo diner could be done in under half an hour.

As for the frites? Skin-on, greaseless and fried in tallow for beefy, savoury deliciousness. Across the four choices of sauce, we’re most into the dark and sticky veal jus, with an extra boat of peppercorn for the fries.

Good to know: It’s a massive dining room, but it fills up quickly. Book in advance.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.