In case you missed the news in August, Mark Best is cooking in Sydney again. And this time, he’s swapped the relatively modest charcoal-chic dining room of his three hatted Marque in Surry Hills, which closed in 2017, for dramatic 360-degree views and high-altitude dining at Sydney’s Tower’s revolving restaurant.

Let’s dive into the frequently asked questions, then. How many stories above the CBD? 81. How long does it take the smart dining room of polished brass, navy and warm timber to complete one revolution? 70 minutes, but you can probably make it go faster with a beaut cocktail at the bar or something from the all-Australian wine list. How much? Well. That changes from a la carte at weekday lunch to $190 for three choose-your-own courses at dinner on weekends.

Marque enthusiasts will welcome a reboot of Best’s “grilled sea foam” oyster and its edible shell, but other dishes, such as lamb with braised and pickled daikon, play it straighter. See also precision-steamed hapuka in a little pool of fish-bone-fortified milk, and juicy, lacquered duck teamed with a jammy smoked plum sauce. So is it worth booking? Yep!

Best for: With a view this memorable, it’s no surprise staff are skilled at co-ordinating marriage proposals.

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