Neptune’s Grotto makes you pine for the era of the three-martini lunch – a time that facilitated all-day disappearances fuelled by expense accounts. Descend the stairs to this enclave beneath sibling restaurant Clam Bar, and outside-world responsibilities just slip away.

Wine man Andy Tyson and chefs Dan Pepperell and Mikey Clift have been vamping with every venue they touch, and this is the trio’s most romantic and Goodfellas-esque of the bunch. How’s that zebra-print carpet? Olives all’ascolana are perfect with that deathly cold gin cocktail, and marinated zucchini with mint vinaigrette is unexpectedly glorious.

Pork sausage gramigna pasta (the slightly twisty one) is extra lush, and there’s grandma-style pizza slices to scoop up the sauce. It’s a carb-on-carb manoeuvre, yes, but we feel that Neptune – who watches over the candlelit booths in life-sized statue form – would approve.

Must order: The perfectly thick and crunchy cotoletta alla Milanese.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.