The dark pleasures of dining underground remain timeless. It’s that stepping down and down, away from the world as we know it; the texture of fine linen on the table; the moody glow of brass table lamps against green-leathered circular booths; and the kapow of a tiny white cocktail onion in a Gibson.

Welcome back to The Cut, which has returned to its old heritage sandstone basement site in The Rocks (a very ordinary cocktail bar was here for a minute instead). There’s a comfortable hum across the room, punctuated by “wows” that happen when the prime rib trolley glides to a halt, which it often does. Everyone wants that rib, slow-cooked then seared to a handsome, burnished crust. Expertly cut into a single thick slice at the table, it’s juicy, beefy and tender, and you can be sure there are full-bodied reds on the broad wine list to match.

Before all this spectacle, you may consider raw yellowfin tuna punched up with piquillo peppers and tuna; wood-fired scallops in a full-throttle kombu butter; and a lovely example of radicchio salad for health. With a slab of Russian honey cake to finish, if you return to the outside world still hungry, you’ve ordered very wrong.

Good to know: The prime rib isn’t the only thing on wheels – a roaming spirits trolley offers whiskies and rums at high-rolling prices.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.