“If it makes you happier, I am happy.” If there’s one thing you can count on at Melbourne’s most venerated French bistro, it’s that the chorus line of waiters know exactly how to work the room. So you’d like to try your Bourgogne Rouge from a differently shaped glass? A clean plate for your salad? Consider it done, with a very French combination of efficiency and charm that are key to France-Soir’s magic.

Marinated salmon, with its quenelle of creme fraiche, is as good as ever; classically presented oysters are fairly priced and brilliantly ice-cold. Steak frites matches pleasing chargrill-striped fillet with impeccable French fries

And if one or two dishes don’t quite hit the same heights? You’re having too much fun dipping fries into the boat of bearnaise, shattering the top of creme brulee, and ordering another glass to even notice. Utterly peerless.

Best for: People-watching over a long, wine-centric lunch that rolls into dinnertime.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.