These hills hide secrets: a winery, petting zoo, wedding venue and this wood smoke-wreathed restaurant, which strikes that elusive balance between accessible and special. Well-crusted steaks are placed on nearly every table, whether a date by the picture frame window or a big family celebrating.

Salty ruffles of mortadella are skewered and grilled, and fatty salmon is presented in a striking black wafer cone with bright yuzu gel. Rifling through the world’s pantry, the kitchen lands on ingenious flourishes: curry leaves bolstering the warm spicing of a bisque coating paccheri pasta and Moreton Bay bug; chimichurri riding shotgun with the scotch fillet.

Wines may be affordable estate drops or Italian varieties, and the views of rolling hills have you forgetting you’re still in the city. A rare find in an outer-fringe suburb, it’s obvious why locals are so enamoured with La Vetta.

Must-order: One of the pastas. All are made in-house using eggs that come from hens raised on another part of the estate.

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