The owner couple behind this rule-defying winery restaurant transpose the notes of a European meal into the key of China, their homeland. Forget sourdough and butter. Fluffy bao arrive with pork lard, smoky chilli oil and soy sauce in a savoury triple-threat.

Fine slices of duck ham meet black bean-inspired sauce, sweet orange segments and crisp brik pastry for a left-field homage to Peking duck. Fatty short-ribs display wood-fired char around the edges, while their char siu-style glaze is complemented by estate pinot noir made from grapes glimpsed through generous windows.

Sichuan salt dusts roast potatoes and on Sundays there’s even yum cha. The blonde-timber dining room glows with ring lights, and warm acoustics and ample space ensure maximum comfort. Before you leave, one more surprise: floral osmanthus ice-cream scooped by chef Abe Yang onto an ultra-airy sponge cake.

Good to know: Request a booth for the best views of the estate.

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