After four years on the picturesque main drag of Rutherglen, husband-and-wife team Matthieu and Erica Miller (chef and front-of-house, respectively) say they’ve sold close to 40,000 croquettes. The menu favourite changes every six weeks, perhaps a crisp, melty nugget of prosciutto and cheddar, but it’s always suited to the punchy drinks list stacked with local names such as Scion.

“Steak and chips” cleverly unites a potato cake with beef tartare, while hearty mains might include smoky Angus beef fillet sourced from nearby Chiltern Valley. Orecchiette is strewn with orange-scented duck ragu, and pork belly is tender yet strapped with audible crackle.

A bare-brick dining room with an open fire matches the Euro-leaning fare; a breezy rear courtyard suits the country location. Confident and easy to like, you can see why Grace is the heart of the community.

Good to know: The team runs a coffee-and-snack window, Little G, out the front on weekends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.