Owner Reveka Hurtado has built a haven for Melbourne’s Latin-American diaspora, and it shows in the crowd: tradies in hi-vis, families sharing enormous plates, students playing dominoes and Jenga. Papelon is for everyone – but especially those craving the flavours of home. The menu skews to Hurtado’s native Venezuela , but crosses borders freely.

Golden empanadas stuffed with beef and beans are a treat with Polar beer or a Colombian malt soda. Tequenos – halloumi wrapped in dough – are dunked into tangy sugarcane sauce for a sweet-salty jolt. A colossal patacon stacks spiced chicken between discs of fried plantain, doused in a punchy coriander and garlic-rich sauce.

Best of all is cachapa – a sweetcorn pancake stuffed with fiery birria-style beef and an almost absurd amount of cheese, both halloumi and Oaxaca. Murals, flags and Latin tunes brighten the room, and the value is outstanding.

Good to know: $45 gets you unlimited tacos (and a drink) every Monday.

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