The only mess you’ll find at this moody regional drawcard is the cultured butter you’ve slathered over house-baked focaccia. Everything else, from the perky service to the Gippsland-forward drinks list, is perfect. Behind the curtained facade, a culinary party is in full swing, soundtracked by funk and the happy hum of diners.

The tight, Euro-leaning menu is constantly changing, but gold lies in the snack section, which might offer crackers topped with French onion dip and neat rows of pickled celery. Another – gnocco fritto with cured leg ham and parmesan cream – delivers big cheesy energy.

Lean in for specials; a coil of juicy, herb-stuffed porchetta with lip-coating jalapeno jus makes extra focaccia a must. And if there’s a vanilla parfait to finish, pick that: a semifreddo slab zigzagged with quince caramel and crowned with an arrangement of fresh raspberries.

Good to know: Much of the produce is sourced from the owners’ garden or local drop-offs.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.