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14.5/20Critics' Pick

Hopper Joint

Updated ,first published

Hopper set at Hopper Joint.
1 / 11Hopper set at Hopper Joint.Supplied
Acelebration of Sri Lankan cuisine.
2 / 11Acelebration of Sri Lankan cuisine.Annika Kafcaloudis
The menu is illustrated and comes with family anecdotes.
3 / 11The menu is illustrated and comes with family anecdotes.Paul Jeffers
Sunchoke kiri pani.
4 / 11Sunchoke kiri pani.Joe Armao
Beef pan rolls.
5 / 11Beef pan rolls.Annika Kafcaloudis
Inside the 80-seat restaurant.
6 / 11Inside the 80-seat restaurant.Joe Armao
Hopper sets include two curries and sambols.
7 / 11Hopper sets include two curries and sambols.Joe Armao
Pineapple and prawn curries.
8 / 11Pineapple and prawn curries.Joe Armao
Cuttlefish dosai.
9 / 11Cuttlefish dosai.Joe Armao
Beef tartare.
10 / 11Beef tartare.Joe Armao
Inside the venue.
11 / 11Inside the venue.Supplied
14.5/20Critics' Pick

Hopper Joint

Sri Lankan$$

A richly detailed homage to a culture of hands-on eating.

Hopper Joint has two rules. Wash your hands before eating, and order hoppers, Sri Lanka’s crowning carb. Every curry comes with at least two of the crisp, bowl-shaped rice pancakes – more if you lean into the unlimited hopper service.

Whether you choose lush beef or hot-and-sweet pineapple curry, you’re expected to eat with your hands, as demonstrated by thoughtfully designed art on walls and menus. Start with the punchy Lankan steak tartare or a golden basket of bonda, those subcontinental spheres of fried potato and green chilli. Finish on love cake, which can also be ferried home for later.

Look around between sips of curry leaf martini and drink in layers of soft light, brass accents and Sri Lankan motifs. Interior designer Brahman Perera and co-owner Jason Jones haven’t just styled the place, they’ve told a story.

Good to know: Ring the bell on the table for free hopper refills.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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