There might be no greater sense of arrival at a regional restaurant than at Stefano’s. Descend the stairs and find a subterranean dining room softly lit and lined with art – a suitably unique backdrop to Stefano de Pieri’s food.

For more than 30 years he’s championed the produce of north-west Victoria, including wines, whether a fresh pinot grigio from MDI or a skin-contact collaboration with Chalmers. The five-course menu lands in a wave of surprises, each well-managed by friendly staff.

Swing from a glorious signature sformato (“a cheese souffle, but Stefano would never call it that”) to a refreshing lime and cardamom panna cotta. Tripe and polenta is perhaps not to everyone’s taste, but the tomato sauce the offal is cooked in is a winner, its richness brightened by lemon zest. A fitting move for a restaurant that’s always gone its own way.

Good to know: Don’t feel like dinner? Visit from 5.30pm for antipasto for two and a glass of wine for $60.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.