By day, you’re savouring the city’s most famous anchovy toast at a sunny table out front. Come evening, cafe morphs into candlelit wine bar, one with European leanings and a distinctly Melbourne soul. Lightly pickled and fermented vegetables – maybe cucumber, beetroot and radish, depending on the week – make a bright opening act.

Chef Ben Parkinson pleasantly surprises with the pairing of saffron and bottarga in a golden risotto: rich, floral, saline. Thin slices of lamb leg are draped over a velvety tahini sauce that’s offset by the tang of pickled red onion and anchovy.

You can’t go wrong on a wine list that highlights small and local producers, including Central Victorian drops from Little Reddie. You might stop in for just a glass and a snack, but odds are you’ll soon find yourself sighing over a ginger cake with mont blanc-style frosting.

Good to know: Stay at the minimalist guest house upstairs for the full experience.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.