How often is food this high-octane served in digs this low-key? Or staff this laidback strapped with knowledge this long-ranging? And just what business does chef Nagesh Seethiah have rousing Errol Street with pop-ups and parties of such rare pedigree? Manze is big and bold, but the execution is astute.

Plump Goolwa pipis bask in zestier-than-average masala butter that beckons to be sucked off the shell. Blackened but blushing pink within, a pork cutlet’s subtle sweetness is offset by a sauce of sour greens. And greo, a semolina pudding, spices up your life with cardamom, bolstered by salty coconut sorbet and strips of tart rhubarb.

One of few mainstays is the taro fritter, a fried orb of golden goodness, which you’re encouraged to squish flat and swipe through the house-made hot sauce. It’s your portal to Mauritian deliciousness.

Good to know: When booking, it’s for the set menu only, but head across the road to Boire, the crew’s new bar, for snacks and drinks.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.