Few places in Richmond offer as thrilling a journey down the natural wine rabbit hole as Clover, led by vin-thusiasts who guide the way with easygoing excellence. The calibre is high wherever you look. In your glass, an elegant, subtly savoury skin-contact orange from Savoie, or perhaps a salty sip from the slopes of Mount Etna.

On your plate, a weighty puck of fried bread with smoky crab, slivers of fennel and a blizzard of dill. Playing with fire is where chef Charley Snadden-Wilson excels. Half-chickens are scorched but burstingly juicy, pooled by pungent curry butter that infuses the air with spice.

Even tiramisu isn’t spared from the flame, its chunky coiled cap of meringue getting the bombe Alaska treatment. Clover’s been drawing diners like moths to a flame since 2022, but the cooking is only getting more confident.

Good to know: The open kitchen has some cosy fireside bar seats.

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