Patsy’s is a wine bar that relies on vegetables and grains rather than mock meat for its plant-happy menu, and it’s come a long way in its three years. Warm staff talk you through interesting wines, including rarely seen varieties and many vegan choices.

Cheese souffle is so wonderfully airy and decadent, you won’t mind its richness. The addition of pink peppercorns in the buttery sauce is dynamic and unexpected. Charred sugarloaf cabbage, a much-done dish, gets new sparkle from pickled shallots, mustard-thyme glaze and hazelnuts. House-made tortellini filled with a puree of golden beets and sprinkled with poppyseeds is elegant and generous in a way meat-free dishes sometimes aren’t.

Most produce is sourced from the owners’ small farm near Daylesford, a detail that adds to the charms of this cottage-like restaurant that looks after vegetarian diners in clever ways.

Good to know: Vegans can safely order most things on the menu.

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