When Kafenieon landed briefly on Bourke Street it was an instant classic. Now that it’s settled in the Supper Club site, it feels just as essentially Melbourne. Most of the previous decor remains (including an incongruous but delightfully retro Four ‘n’ Twenty blackboard) but the menu is now a masterclass in rustic Greek cooking.

It’s unlikely you’ll see these dishes in the tavernas around town. Not crisp-fried, oregano-flecked sweetbreads brightened with lemon, nor tomato orzo spiced with cinnamon and baked with chicken, which will take some diners back to yiayia’s table.

Pork braised with potato, leek and lemon is comfort by the spoonful. Even a simple fava dip is impressive: velvety, warm and scattered with capers, red onion, spring onion and green chilli. Service has improved since the pop-up days but, thankfully, is just as unfussy as this soul-nourishing food.

Good to know: Opt for the still-generous half-serves of mains so you can squeeze in dessert, such as filo and orange syrup cake.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.